Good News

On the way home through the backstreets of Baluwatar I felt someone watching me. He was tall and extremely handsome. Shining blue eyes, marble white skin, rosy cheeks. A Westerner, wearing a Nepali outfit. He fixed his eyes on me, and his smile filled the grey autumn day with vibrant colours. The houses seemed to …

Buddha’s Orphans

I was staying in Kathmandu in June, trying to recover from a difficult Kailash trip. Couldn`t really do much for about three weeks, just stayed in bed, and read books to immerse in different dimensions of reality to ease the pain. One day I decided to leave my confinement, and aimlessly wandered down on Kanti …

Zen Black, Zen White

‘This new bamboo shoot hangs over my neighbours wall – hasn’t yet learned about boundaries -‘ /Satish Gupta/   Whenever I end up in Delhi, the first thing I do is to go to Connaught Place and start circling around till I find a newspaper wallah to buy a copy of the First City. It …

Waiting list

‘You are on waiting list’, I heard from the other side of the check-in counter. ‘What the hell?’, I thought, I bought the ticket online, and it wasn’t a discounted ticket. ‘What’s happening here?’ There were so many things going wrong recently, that I wasn’t utterly surprised. I walked through the glittering corridors of Vienna …

Face mapping in Hongkong

Hongkong. I was really exhausted after finishing the trip, but had to sit at the computer all day to finish the administration. By the evening I was desperate for fresh air and some fun, so headed to Temple street to find a face reader. The idea was inspired by a film I watched recently called …

Jetleg in Delhi

It is raining all day, the wet winter chill creeps into my bones. Just landed in Delhi three hours ago. It would be best to watch TV while lying in bed under the quilt, but when I turn it on, it`s just humming and buzzing, the screen looks grey and foggy like the weather outside, …

Malaria dream

Yesterday morning I arrived in Calcutta. I was reading The Calcutta Chromosome by Amitav Ghosh on the train, an exciting book on malaria disease, delirium and nightmares, coincidences and synchronicity, all set in Calcutta. As I started my rounds in the city I felt the dynamics the book was talking about. I met an Italian woman, …

Nature and imagination

I am back in Banaras after a trip to Tibet, but my mind is still there trying to replay the moments, retasting fragrances, colours and sounds. There is a picture coming to my mind often these days, the moment when we were about to reach Nyalam (a Tibetan village near the Nepali border). From the …

Let It Be

Today is the first day of the strike in Kathmandu. It was imposed by the Maoists. They said if someone violates the strike rules, keeps his shop open, or drives around, etc., they will ruin the person and his business. People are frightened, everything is closed, Thamel looks like a ghost town in a Thai …

Kala Bairav

The rikshaw wallah was an old madman. First he wanted me to buy him new shoes, then had several ideas about visiting shops, it was really difficult to convince him that I am serious about crossing the whole city just for a temple visit. He was entertaining me all the way from Assi to Kotwali …